Free 18″ Doll Clothes Pattern: Perfect for American Girl Dolls and Our Generation
I designed this free 18″ Doll Clothes Pattern pattern when I was a beginner myself, trying to focus on the basics of straight lines and lining, but without added complications of gathering and complicated bodices. The reversible design gives you so many ways to wear, and the tie is removable, so no gathering! You get both a tank and a tied crop. This pattern is perfect for the summer as a cute beach coverup.
Take inspo from my amazing pattern testers:
You Will Need:
❖ The pattern! Get the full printout by putting your name and email in above, or add it to your cart and checkout for free by clicking here.
❖ 1 Fat Quarter lightweight woven fabric without “show through”
■ Suggested Fabrics: Main fabric and lining/reversible side in medium weight cotton, cotton blends, gingham, silk, or linen.
❖ Hook and loop tape:
■ For Bodice: ¼” x 1”
■ For Skirt: ¼” x ¾”
❖(Optional) ½” Button (1-2)
❖(Optional) Lace:
■ Bodice: 12”
■ Skirt: 13.25”
■ Total: 25.25”
❖ Thread
❖Sewing Machine
❖Sewing Machine Needles (for lightweight fabric, sizes 11/75 or 12/80)
❖Iron and Pressing Tools
Seam Allowance: ¼”
I recommend pairing these instructions with my free video tutorial here:
Cutting Instructions:
Cutting Layout: 18” by 22” folded in half lengthwise.
Pattern Pieces:
❖ Front (Cut 2. 1 for the main fabric, 1 lining/reversible fabric.)
❖ Sides (Cut 4. 2 for the main fabric, 2 lining/reversible fabric.)
❖ Tie (Cut 2 on main fabric. Optionally, cut 1 main fabric and 1 lining/reversible fabric, aware that when tying, showing only one side will require a bit more finesse.)
❖ Skirt (Cut 2. 1 for the main fabric, 1 lining/reversible fabric):
➢ 13.75” wide (6.875” wide cut on fold)
➢ 5” long
❖ Straps (Cut 2 on main fabric):
➢ 9” long (4.5” wide cut on fold)
➢ 1” wide
Printing Instructions:
This pattern is designed to fit on 8.5” x 11” paper. To print, be sure that your printer scaling is set to “none,” “actual size,” or “100%” to ensure proper sizing. Because all printers are different, check the 1” measurement and/or the 1 cm measurement on the pattern piece pages to be certain the pattern is sized properly.
Doll Measurements:
This pattern was designed to fit a modern American Girl DollⓇ with an 11” chest, 11 ⅛” waist, and 12” hip. If you have a doll with similar measurements, this pattern should fit. Be sure to measure your doll and adjust if needed. This pattern was made as a free 18″ doll clothes pattern.
Project Basics:
❖ Seam allowance in ¼”
❖ Standard stitch is a length of 2.5 mm (2 mm also works!) unless otherwise stated.
❖ For more guidance on project steps, I advise watching the video tutorial.
Sewing Instructions:
Marking:
1. Be sure to mark all notches and markings. For Front and Side notches, cut pattern pieces with the triangles, or cut without the triangles and mark each side of the triangle with a small slit in the seam allowance, making sure not to cut past the seam allowance. (Optional: If using lace, mark lace lines, which are just inside of the seam allowance on the right side of the bodice’s Sides and the Skirt.)
2. For the Skirt’s hook and loop tape, mark where the angled tape should go on the main fabric’s right side. To help in the marking process, cut the outline out, lay pattern piece on top of the fabric, and mark the outline with tailor’s chalk.
Straps:
3. On Straps, press ¼” in on one short side. Then, press both long sides into the middle. Fold in half, and sew along the open edge to close the Straps (recommend using an edging foot here).
Bodice:
4. With right sides together, match the notches of the Sides and Front. Sew. Do for main fabric and lining/reversible fabric.
5. Press seams open.
6. To the right side of either fabric, pin (optional) lace according to markings, just within the seam allowance. Pin the raw edge of Straps as well, making sure they are placed symmetrically according to the stitch line. Baste together with a 4 mm stitch length or higher.
7. To avoid sewing over the straps, bundle Straps in a clip or something similar to condense their size and make them more noticeable while sewing.
8. Right sides together, pin the bodices together. To help with sewing “v”s, mark your seam allowance for the v neck on the side you will be sewing. Sew along the bodice’s edges, leaving the one of the bodice’s Sides unsewn. When starting and ending sewing around, be sure not to sew over the open Side’s 1/4″ seam allowance, as this will be pressed back later.
9. When sewing the “v,” lower your stitch length to 2 mm, and then to 1.5 mm for more precise sewing and to make the edge cleaner when the bodice is turned right side out.
10. After sewing, clip the seam allowance on the corners and curves. In the middle of the “v,” cut a slit into the seam allowance, making sure not to cut into the stitch line.
11. On the open edge, press each Side’s 1/4″ seam allowance back over itself, wrong sides together. This will make sewing this edge easier after turning the bodice right side out.
12. Flip the garment right side out. I recommend pushing from the closed Side to the open side, and once right side out, using a tool or pencil to poke corners out.
13. Make sure the open edge is still pressed 1/4″ in and sew closed. This can be done with either a top stitch along the edge, or hand sewing a slip stitch (also called a blind or ladder stitch).
To slip stitch:
1. Knot your thread. Hide this knot in the fold of the hem.
2. On the other fabric close to where you started, pick up a small amount of fabric.
3. Pull your needle through and repeat on the other side.
4. When you have reached the end, tie a knot close to your fabric (I like to make a loop with the thread, put my needle through the loop and pull tight, then repeat to make a double knot).
14. Iron bodice flat. Pin 1″ hook and loop tape on either side of the fabric along the edge. Sew. I recommend using 2 mm stitch length to have more control over sewing the corners. Bodice completed.
Tie:
15. Right sides together, sew Tie along the ¼” seam allowance, leaving an opening at the bottom.
16. Clip edges. Like the bodice, on the open edge, press each 1/4″ seam allowance over itself, wrong sides together.
17. Turn right side out. Poke corners out with a tool or pencil. Make sure the open edge is still pressed ¼” in. Sew along the edge with a top stitch or slip stitch closed. Tie Completed.
18. To attach the tie to the bodice:
1. Put bodice on doll.
2. Slip tie behind the middle of the bodice.
3. Tie a single knot.
4. Done!
Skirt
19. If using lace, pin lace facing upwards to the right side of either Skirt fabric, according to markings (which are just outside of the seam allowance). Baste with a stitch length of 4 mm or higher.
20. Right sides together, pin Skirt pieces together. Sew along the sides, leaving a 3″ opening on one side to turn right side out. I did this on a short edge. Feel free to change if you believe elsewhere will have a cleaner finish.
21. Clip corners. On the open edge, press each 1/4″ seam allowance over itself, wrong sides together.
22. Iron Skirt flat. Pin 3/4″ long hook and loop tape to each side of Skirt. Place one on an angle according to the markings, and place the other on the other side of the fabric along the matching corner edge. After pinning, I recommend putting it on your doll to make sure Skirt fits. Adjust if needed. Sew hook and loop tape with a 2 mm stitch length.
23. Optionally, sew a button over either or both the hook and loop tape. For a cleaner finish, hand sew button by only pulling the needle through the top layer of fabric. Skirt completed.
23. Optionally, sew a button over either or both the hook and loop tape. For a cleaner finish, hand sew button by only pulling the needle through the top layer of fabric. Skirt completed.
Finished! Thank you for choosing to make the Blue Hawaii outfit!
I hope you enjoyed this FREE 18″ doll clothes pattern, and I’d love to see how your outfit turned out! If you share any pics of the project, please tag me; it’s wonderful to see your creations! You can find me on Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube at:
@joanierosesewing
This is my first pattern release and I’d love to hear your thoughts! If you have any questions or thoughts, message me on social media or email me at joanierosesewing@gmail.com.
Special Thanks
Creating my first pattern was a long journey. In 2022, I drafted the first version of these free 18″ doll clothes pattern pieces as a beginner myself. Two years later, I made these pieces into a pdf pattern, and sent it off to some amazing pattern testers. Without their feedback, I never would have digitized the pattern pieces, made it reversible, made it fit properly (!!), and plenty of other details. Thank you so much to my version 1 and 2 pattern testers:
Lisa Abney
Lindsay Reinoehl Bartleson
Sherilyn Bergan
Deanna Bredeken
Glenda Coleman
Nancy Gates
Lori Gellhaus
Minnie Gradwell
Dawn Henderson
Mitzi Heunes
Bee Cazares Jacobs
Julie James
Linda Joyce
Robin LH
Cathy Fahey Mace
Paula Machnik
Cyndi Mann
Lynn McGauvran
Annalene McKenna
Mimi Moore
Abbie Oppedahl
April Orton
Bobbie Pumford
Angie Schuh
MJ Sewbig
Diane Shopteau
Linda Shultz
Ribbet Skates
Tomi Soriano-Shanbhag
Sherri Russo Stallard
Lucy Thorne
Natalie Tomlin
Yojana Vazquez
Shelagh Waters-Hewitt
Hi Joanie! Thank you so much for making and sharing this pattern! This is such a fun way for me to get better at sewing. Love the interchangeability of this outfit. So cute!!
Great Idea but it won’t let me fill in my name so I can’t download the pattern
Hi Moi! Try opening this page in a different browser (like edge, firefox, etc). Otherwise, you can get the pattern here: https://joanierosesewing.com/product/blue-hawaii-doll-pattern/